Much like any product, winemaking styles follow trends throughout the years. Some may remember the white zinfandel craze of the 1980s and ’90s, or the shift to buttery California chardonnay. Different types and the amount of oak used has also undergone waves of popularity. These are just a few examples of how consumer tastes have shifted, and how the wine industry approach has swung from one decade to the next.
Nick Jackson is a Master of Wine and president of Crescendo Wines, a Florida-based fine wine importer. He is also the author of “Beyond Flavour” (first and second editions), which is a comprehensive guide to wine tasting that’s used as a tool by top wine scholars around the world.
Jackson’s experience in the industry as a master on the subject and as an importer gives him an eagle-eyed view of what’s happening in the most popular wine regions globally. He shared some of his insights into current wine trends with the Biscayne Times, using examples of the wines he imports to help curious consumers make decisions when selecting bottles.
Here are a few wine regions across Europe that are seeing a shift in winemaking for a more modern wine drinker. All that are mentioned are available for purchase at 305Wines.com.
Piemonte, Italy
(Sarah Phillips)
Castello di Perno Barolo can be found at Maison Mura wine shop in downtown Miami.
The region of Barolo within Piemonte is the land of the nebbiolo grape and is often praised by wine connoisseurs as one of the top regions for fine wine production.
Castello di Perno is a Piemonte producer on the rise making Barolo in a neoclassical style. Jackson explained that this means they’re staying true to the traditions of the region, while also incorporating a more modern approach to winemaking for a changing consumer palate.
The wines maintain the integrity of the highest quality production while avoiding more astringent tannins traditionally linked with nebbiolo, as well as the heavy oak and over-extracted fruit often associated with newer styles of wine. These Barolos offer supple, elegant tannins and are more approachable for earlier consumption, leaving behind the era of waiting years for a Barolo to reach drinkability. According to Jackson, the style here is trending toward a polished version of classic winemaking.
Castello di Perno Barolo DOCG 2018, $58.99
Champagne, France
(Champagne Jean Milan and Crescendo Wines)
The Champagne Jean Milan vineyards are planted to one variety only: chardonnay.
Have you heard of grower Champagne? Many consumers are shifting their preferences away from larger Champagne houses – where grapes are sourced from numerous vineyards across the region – and instead looking for bubbly made by producers who also grow their own vines. Jackson describes grower Champagne – such as Champagne Jean Milan – as even more of an expression of the land, because the grapes in the bottle can provide a glimpse into an individual place and the family making the wine.
The best news about the option to enjoy these more focused wines is that they offer the same iconic Champagne style, often at a more reasonable price point.
Champagne Jean Milan Blanc de Blancs Brut, $61.99
Mosel, Germany
(Heinrichshof and Crescendo Wines)
Heinrichshof has been owned and run by brothers Peter and Ulrich Griebeler since 2014.
Bye-bye sweet riesling! Jackson calls that style “yesterday’s news,” because today’s consumer prefers it dry.
There is a change in the way this region, traditionally known for sweeter styles, is making wine. Warmer summers mean that grapes are able to ripen more on the vine, leading to lower overall levels of acidity. This allows winemakers to produce a dry wine while maintaining balance in the glass without overwhelmingly harsh levels of tartness from unripe grapes.
Heinrichshof is a family-owned producer in the Mosel, focusing on dry (Trocken) riesling for a more contemporary drinker. Jackson is excited about introducing these wines to South Florida, because he says they offer a story of this beloved grape and what modern-style producers can do with it by presenting riper fruit and concentrated purity for a fresh, dry wine.
(Valados de Melgaço and Crescendo Wines)
Valados de Melgaço is part of a new wave of vinho verde producers.
Heinrichshof Zeltinger Dry Riesling 2020, $19.99
Vinho Verde, Portugal
Many folks got their start in wine drinking with light, spritzy white wines from the Vinho Verde region of northern Portugal. These bottles were traditionally cheap and easy to sip on a hot day.
But what if someone told you Vinho Verde is actually a serious winemaking region with some of the best soils for growing grapes to make premium wines?
Jackson imports wines made by Valados de Melgaço, a producer offering age-worthy vinho verde wines made from concentrated single varieties like Alvarinho (Albariño). These wines will challenge everything you thought you knew about the personality of vinho verde wines by representing the region as one that can compete at the same level with other exceptional white wine categories across Europe.
Valados de Melgaço Alvarinho 2020, $22.99
Overall, these wineries from regions throughout Europe are examples of how the industry is shifting for an evolving consumer. Jackson sees the Florida wine market changing before our eyes, as savvy drinkers search for opportunities to enjoy wines of great quality made with more attention by smaller producers.
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(Nick Jackson)
Nick Jackson is one of only two Masters of Wine in Florida.
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(Nick Jackson)
A comprehensive guide to wine tasting written by Nick Jackson.