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(SID HOELTZELL @ MIAMI 2024)

Gravlax on a bialy with cream cheese, capers, tomato, red onion and a dill pickle.

The Gravlax You'll Never Have Enough Of

Salt and sugar-cured salmon that melts in your mouth

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This is my all-time favorite classic recipe.   

For several years that I have been writing my column, my editor has often asked about me divulging my recipe for gravlax. Now is the time. 

I have created this dish hundreds of times for Christmas, holidays and events.  I even had a pop-up with it in Wynwood one year. That was a great one. 

You can see in the assembled group photo that there are many ways to serve gravlax (bagel vs. bialys, scallions vs. chives, w/-w/o salmon roe, etc.). This preparation is so very simple, like the Char Sui, it relies on one’s patience and timing. There are many variations and I try to mix it up occasionally, but I still stick to the roots of the recipe. Salt and sugar 48 hours under the direction of the sundial and then you’ll be feasting on salmon for a few great days (or one last supper).

Gravlax is that type of soul-food once you have the confidence to make it. There are many basic recipes online and some of the best produced can be gotten at Russ & Daughters in NYC (that’s before the stop at Katz’s Deli for the famous deli pastrami orgasm).  

Preparing gravlax is as old as the hills and Scandinavian countries have always had the benefit of colder climates acceptable for cold storage in root cellars. Still, there is no root cellar, cave or permafrost that might keep salmon from spoiling after you “fillet and release” the salmon catch. Cold smoking is an answer (lox is the cure) but gravlax was another method used to keep the salmon around for a greater amount of time. Once prepared, gravlax lasts about 4-5 days if properly kept cold, and it vacuum-freezes rather well if you decide to use the full monty (whole slab). 

I also make sure the starting fillet is completely scaled so I can make my salmon skin “bacon” when I finish that last morsel of cured fish flesh. 

This is a dish that can be served as a great appetizer or main. With or without breads, it is a crowd pleaser. To my credit, I have had Norwegians tell me mine is the best of the best. I had a native Norwegian client who would stop by for many years a few days before Christmas to pick up a slab. Joan and Anders would arrive with a bottle of bubbly in hand to “swap” for that Norwegian wonder food. “Sid’s Wynwood Gravlax” reminded them of home. Just you see, one day my friend Thom promised me we will make the epic “Gravlax-the Movie.” I can’t wait. Until then, grab your slab and start the clock.  

The process is rather simple and so perfect for salmon. The 50-50 salt/sugar mixture is about the water, not the spicing. Like baking a fish in a molded salt casing, the salt does not transmit too much flavor to the fish. The same principle applies for gravlax, but extra flavors can also be mildly introduced into the “meat” of the fish. Curing the salmon skin-side down permits just the one exposed layer of flesh to be “graved.” (pronounced “GRAVID,” not from the grave). 

Forty-eight hours is my choice for basic curing, so the great silky oils of the fish become more concentrated. That’s where the richness begins. You can go 72 hours one time and you will find that gets more salt/sugar flavor into the “bark” and yields a very oily finale. 

Experimenting with adding other herbs to the mix can always be fun. I have even seen people adding shredded sugar beets for the drastic color and extra sweetness they impart. For my style, the sprinkling-rub of the orange zest is what I prefer.

 Also, as a note, when carving this delish fish down … cut thin, cut thin, again, cut thin. Folding and layering adds to the flavor… don’t ask me how, just listen to poppy.  I like mine on bialys or a gutted everything bagel. Traditional toppings are capers, dill, scallions, chives, tomato, and a classic creamy mustard sauce. I hope you folks have some fishy fun.  

This is another prime candidate for repeat performances … you will be smellin’ what I’m tellin.’ (don’t leave any tidbits out around the sink or you will be smellin’ something for sure.)

CHEF SID’S GRAVLAX

Serves: The size of the fish determines who gets to enjoy the goodness of gravlax. Approximately 6 oz. is a great amount to place on top of any bagel or bialys 

INGREDIENTS:

·        Approximately 2 pounds salmon (scaled with skin on, I prefer the front half as it is the widest portion). I use farmed salmon but stopped using Faroe Island stock because they kill whales (Keep the skin on). Wild caught salmon does not have the fat content I seek.

·        2 cups kosher salt. (I use 1½ cups kosher salt and ½ applewood smoked salt for a bit of smokiness without the smoke)

·        2 cups granulated sugar

·        ½ cup fresh orange zest 

·        ½ cup fresh dill chopped coarsely (one big burly bunch should do but I always save some for finishing sprinkles.)

·        ¼ cup whole peppercorns

·        2 non-stick baking pans or one large and one smaller nesting Pyrex brownie cake-baking dishes.

PREPARATION:

·        Salmon fillet should be scaled, pin bones removed, and paper-towel dried after one cold water rinse.

·        Place salmon fillet skin-side down into a baking dish or baking tray with a lip that is at least 2” high (the salt-sugar will absorb water from the curing fish and create a gooey mess.

·        Spread orange zest all over fleshy top side salmon, followed with peppercorns, also apply a substantial amount of chopped dill … pat all this atop the salmon.

·        These surface spices help add flavor as the salt and sugar mixture draws out the moisture of the fish to reveal its silky “fatty” smoothness.

·        Combine all salts (kosher and smoked), sugar, with remaining volume of your chopped dill, remaining orange zest and peppercorns. (You can add orange juice from the orange and shot of vodka can help)

·        Gently layer and cover (at least 1” thick layer) the sugar-salt mixture, then cover with Saran Wrap. After covering, weights should be applied with smaller baking disk or flat plate that will apply even pressure to the covered salmon. This aides the effect of making good contact to dehydrate the fish.

·        Place at least 6-8 beer cans, or soda cans or items of weight on top of the covered salmon.

·        Place in refrigerator for a minimum of 48 hours. That is the proper time … two days in the cold hold. You can go three days for “rich oily” effect.

·        Remove salmon and clean off salt-sugar mix by rinsing several times under cold water to remove spices and towel dry. Do not over wash.  

·        Cut this processed salmon thinly and at a slight angle. You want to create thin slices and stack them in between parchment paper. Thinner is better just like at the deli. Slice salmon right down to the skin.

·        Saved skin can be cut into “salmon bacon strip” when baked at 450º for 12-15 minutes until brown and crispy.

Serve with potato salad, macaroni salad, dill pickles or pickled tomatoes.

Next month, I aim to cook soft shelled crab with a colorful cous-cous on the side.

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(SID HOELTZELL @ MIAMI 2024)

Slice gravlax very thin and at an angle for flavor.

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(SID HOELTZELL @ MIAMI 2024)

Thinly sliced salmon just waiting to be piled onto a bagel or bialy or even on a cracker.

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(SID HOELTZELL @ MIAMI 2024)

Chef Sid getting ready to enjoy his creation.

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(SID HOELTZELL @ MIAMI 2024)

Variations of Chef Sid's Gravlax from over the years.

Sid Hoeltzell is an award-winning Miami-based commercial food and beverage photographer and former “MasterChef” contestant. He has completed more than 450 commissioned works for Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines, teaches food photography seminars and is a preferred fine art photographer for Christie’s, Sotheby’s and private collections.