Soft-shell crabs. I love these babies so much I will drive, often with friends, to a place in Everglades City called City Seafood. I have been going there for more than 25 years and they still make a great soft-shell crab and grouper sandwich. It’s all over my Facebook and Instagram posts all these years.
Why do I travel 140 miles round trip? The view and the flavor are my rewards. Driving out west one way 70 miles across the state on Calle Ocho happens to be fun when traversing the Everglades. The views are so cool, with alligators, herons, snapping turtles, and even occasional deer — roadkill anyone? Driving folks out to the River of Grass reveals to me that many residents of Florida just don’t get out there at all. It’s similar to seeing the Statue of Liberty; many tri-state residents never see Lady Liberty up close on her own island. I have met people who have lived in Florida all their lives, yet they’ve never set rubber boots into the Everglades to do a proper muck about, let alone ride the bumpy Loop Road side trip. What a treat to stop and enjoy this vanishing wilderness. You can even get on a few airboats and do the tourist thing. The point is, when the fun and the food are excellent, I will do the drive.
I have eaten soft-shell crab for 50 years. To have soft-shell crab fresh in the springtime when cruising along some coastal seafood dive, that is the way to start. I have also had soft-shell in high-end Japanese sushi bars, and they too create a wonderful part of the menu. The problem is when people, chefs, or cooks screw them up with a heavy batter dip. I don’t care what you do with other deep-fried foods, just don’t kill the beautiful nuance of crab flavor with a quarter-inch layer of oily dough. The damned batter-dipping society should stick to dough-dipping their Twinkies and leave those sacrificial crabs in peace. The simplest and cleanest way to prepare soft-shell crabs is a light dusting of spiced cornstarch.
Soft-shell crabs are really cool. The crabs must molt out of their shell when they grow. At that stage, the shells are shed like an overcoat. After molting, the crabs can be harvested, and the shell remains soft and edible if they are removed from the ocean water. There are typical Maryland blue crabs that have a wonderful red-blue claw color, but the commercially sold soft-shell crabs come frozen and appear in browner tones. That’s fine with me.
Prior to cooking, many people prefer to cut the crab’s eye-ridge, pluck off the back triangular flap, and then remove the lungs under the top shell. You can do that on the larger fresh soft-shell crabs, but I will eat everything without butchering the bodies. The whole crab is delicately super soft and, when fried in medium hot oil of about 375 degrees, everything gets really crispy and crunchy. If you get the large fresh Maryland blue crabs, then I would suggest a little trim. Maryland soft-shell crabs that are shipped fresh are too expensive for me, but hey, if you got it, spend it.
Preparing the crabs is very simple. My preference is to deep fry in a skillet, which is why I use a high heat oil mixture; a combination of half olive oil and half avocado oil works for me. I place the dusted/dredged soft-shell crabs top side down in the hot oil so the shell does not balloon up in the heat. Remember, the soft shell is a thin, soft, moist membrane of what it once was. While cooking in the high heat, the shell takes on the texture of a potato chip. The contrast between the crispy, edible shell and the soft sweet meat inside, that’s the trip right there. Also, did you know that soft-shell crabs are a great source of vitamin B-12 and are high in Omega-3 fatty acids? That’s great news for your heart, though bad news for the crab. I’m sure that one can do the air fryer route to save on the frying method, but I prefer frying in oil for the crispiest return.
So, grab those crispy crabs and take a savory bite --- you will be smellin’ what I’m tellin’.
Chef Sid’s Soft-Shell Crabs
Serves: 2
INGREDIENTS:
· 6 soft-shell crabs
· 1 cup corn starch
· 2 tablespoons garlic powder
· 2 tablespoons onion powder
· 1 teaspoon salt
· 2 cups avocado oil
· 2 cups olive oil
PREPARATION:
· Take the soft-shell crabs and pat dry with paper towels.
· In a bowl, whisk the corn starch, onion powder, garlic powder, and salt until ingredients are mixed well.
· Dredge each crab individually in the dry mixture and shake off excess.
· Add olive oil and avocado oil to a deep skillet and heat to 375 degrees.
· Fry three crabs at a time. Make sure to place the crabs top side down. Fry for 2 minutes, then gently flip crabs and fry for 2 minutes on the bottom side. until browned and crispy on both sides.
· Place on paper towels to absorb extra oil.
· Serve on platter with rice or just eat them plain and simple.
Soft-shell crab goes great with saffron jasmine rice. I’m sure everyone knows how to make jasmine rice. Just add a bunch of saffron to it. And don’t forget the tartar sauce, whether you make it yourself or buy it in a store, is a great accompaniment to soft-shell crabs.
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(Sid Hoeltzell)
Frying in oil on high heat makes the crab crispy.
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(Sid Hoeltzell)
An up-close view of crispy soft-shell crabs.
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(Sid Hoeltzell)
Soft-shell crabs are delicious alone or with a side dish.
Sid Hoeltzell is an awardwinning Miami-based commercial food and beverage photographer and former “MasterChef” contest. He frequently photographs for Royal Caribbean cruise lines, Christie’s and Sotheby’s.