Seafood again? Yup! And this here’s an easy 5-star treat that’ll please your most discerning guests – and have them melting in a pool of blissful satisfaction.
I had a fun and gifted childhood in Nassau County, N.Y. Our family lived close to the ocean, and I spent a lot of time taking advantage of the beaches and fishin’ holes when not cutting lawns and selling cameras at B&W Photo on East 86th Street in Manhattan. Summer jobs like those got me through S.U.N.Y. Buffalo. When I wasn’t working, I took advantage of my ’67 Volkswagen to get me to the Atlantic Ocean and live the good life.
(SID HOELTZELL @ MIAMI 2023)
Almost all the ingredients to make New England-New Zealand chowder.
One summer I had to give up clamming with my brother because I was lucky enough to find a friendly broken beer bottle underfoot when shuffling for littlenecks. Years later it was safer to taste a few dozen mollusks at the Oak Beach Inn clam bar and properly empty and dispose of a beer bottle. There were no custom brews in those days. I remember being treated like a pagan god when I had a “stewardess” remember to fly a six-pack of Coors back to me from Colorado. What I’m saying is littlenecks and I get along nicely with a proper beer to bless the union.
Now that I have reached a basic level of experience in cooking, even a tried-and-true recipe can take a kick in the … c-ass-k. Many recipes like this creamy chowder can be fiddled with; substitutions are allowed. I like adding some fried crumbled bacon to my mix, but if you’re not into the additional porcine touch, try making a vegan version of this creamy soup … imagine artichoke hearts and leeks. Or maybe a version with “finnan haddie.” (Paying attention to past Dish & Drink columns, are you?).
(SID HOELTZELL @ MIAMI 2023)
Only make time for fresh thyme in this chowder.
Whatever ingredients you decide to throw into your seafood brew, I insist one uses fresh herbs when cooking. Fresh thyme is worth all the time it takes to pull off those tiny leaves from the not-so-tasty stems. It takes thyme to make it right!
I have gathered and tasted clams in so many places – “chip-chips” in Trinidad, littleneck varietals on the West Coast, and also in Latvia, England, France, Crete, Greece and several countries in South America. Clams on the half shell do make me smile (oysters, too). Shucking and sucking is just so visceral and let me tell you, clams incorporated in a pasta? Mmm … gourmet delishness.
Certainly, I’ve tasted some superb chowders, and my favorite is still the New England version. The chowder itself is relatively simple, with butter and cream components that make you crave immediate second helpings, Crestor be damned.
Located under Grand Central Station in New York City is a 103-year-old restaurant called the Oyster Bar. I’ve been hitting that spot for more than 45 years. My go-to chowder there is the “pan-roast” with a clam, oyster or seafood mix. It’s so cool to watch the line cook steam up that concoction right in front of you sitting at the cramped bar counter. One additive they use is a dash of Worcestershire sauce. I use it as well – a little dab will do ya.
(SID HOELTZELL @ MIAMI 2023)
Clean celery well in preparation for the ax.
Experimenting with ingredients is a plus. You never know until you try! This is where those iconic greenshell New Zealand mussels come in. I was feeling poorly and had that darn carrot cake recipe on my mind, but when I spun through my pantry a bottle of clam juice and canned baby clams made a lightbulb go off. Comfort food to elevate my mood and my cholesterol.
I also remembered a box of NZ greenshells I had. So, I opted for New England-style chowder and invited the Kiwi kids to enjoy the upcoming creamy pool. These mussels are always so perfect looking and tasting. You must find a market that has them cooked on the half shell. I go to Jetro or Restaurant Supply Depot. Really, they are so meaty and will hold up in a stew, soup (New England or Manhattan) and can even be tossed with a little savory herb butter.
My experimentation to have more mussel in my chowder was worth it. In addition to the dash of Worcestershire, I add a splash of port (moscato will do) because … I like it that way! Maybe I’ll call it musseled-up drunk clam chowder? Nope.
This creation is ideal for the chillier evenings we can look forward to, and I guarantee you’ll sip a spoonful of leftover soup before it’s warmed up the next day. Make lots of crostini to accompany the dish and you’ll will be smellin’ what I’m tellin’.
CHEF SID’S NEW ENGLAND-NEW ZEALAND CHOWDER
(SID HOELTZELL @ MIAMI 2023)
All the chopped goods; be sure to stick with two parts potatoes to one part celery.
Serves: Six – or just two peeps for three comfy days in a row.
INGREDIENTS
· 2 sticks salted Kerrygold butter
· 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
· 1 shallot, very finely chopped
· 1 bunch celery, about 10-12 stalks, chopped
· 2 pounds potatoes, peeled and chopped into 1/2″ cubes
· 1/2 cup fresh thyme, chopped well and with no stems
· 6 slices center-cut bacon, lightly fried and chopped, optional
(SID HOELTZELL @ MIAMI 2023)
Simmer chopped vegetables, thyme and bacon until tender.
· 1 pint heavy cream
· 2 quarts vegetable broth
· 1 pint clam juice
· 1 cube chicken bouillon
· 2 10-ounce cans baby clams (or chopped clams will do)
· 2-pound box frozen New Zealand mussels, cooked and on half-shell
· Splash of porto or sherry
· Worcestershire sauce
· 1 cup all-purpose flour
· Long sourdough baguette, cut into 1/2″ slices
· 1 cup olive oil
· Salt and pepper to taste
PREPARATION
· In large pot over medium-high heat, melt butter and sauté all vegetables, thyme and bacon (if you’re using it) until tender.
· Stir in heavy cream, vegetable broth and clam juice, then add bouillon cube.
(SID HOELTZELL @ MIAMI 2023)
Frozen from the box, New Zealand greenshell mussels have great color. Remember to thaw ’em before tossing into da’ chowder mix.
· Add baby clams and let simmer 30 minutes.
· Add thawed mussels; leave them on the half shell or spoon them out – do not chop!
· Add a splash of porto or sherry and Worcestershire sauce.
· Thicken chowder with flour that has first been tempered and mixed with liquid from deep pot. Using a whisk, eliminate all lumps before adding the “thickener” into the mix and simmer for another 30 minutes.
· To make crostini, brush olive oil on baguette slices then lightly brown in a frying pan under a cast iron steak weight or bacon press.
· Serve chowder steaming hot with a side of crostini and a glass of Lillet Blanc.
Note: The chowder is even better on the second day after sitting overnight in the refrigerator.
Sid Hoeltzell is an award-winning Miami-based commercial food and beverage photographer and former “MasterChef” contestant. He has completed more than 450 commissioned works for Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines, teaches food photography seminars and is a preferred fine art photographer for Christie’s, Sotheby’s and private collections.
1 of 3
(SID HOELTZELL @ MIAMI 2023)
Vegetable broth and Worcestershire sauce are liquids of necessity in this recipe.
2 of 3
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Fresh pan-toasted sourdough crostini.
3 of 3
(SID HOELTZELL @ MIAMI 2023)
This chowder is even better the next day, after the flavors have had time to meld overnight in the refrigerator.