Nestled between South Carolina and Virginia, North Carolina is home to a diverse geography of urban and rural areas, mountainous regions, and various countrysides and coastal areas that serves as the perfect destination to start a new year of adventure.
But this is not your typical travelogue to the Outer Banks or Asheville’s famed Biltmore Estate. Come along for the ride and you’ll see what I’m talking about.
To begin a tour of the Tar Heel State, I and my millennial son, Julian, flew two hours from Fort Lauderdale into North Carolina’s most populous city, Charlotte.
We picked up a rental car upon our arrival to embark on our road trip, which would take us to one town and three cities in four days.
Carolina’s Clay Culture in Seagrove
First up was a drive into the heart of North Carolina to the town of Seagrove, about 90 minutes from Charlotte. It turns out this charming place is the pottery capital of the U.S., with more than 50 shops within a 20-mile radius.
The North Carolina Pottery Center, open since 1998, was an excellent stop to learn all about the state’s clay culture. The center presents a history of pottery, from pieces crafted by Native Americans (the original potters) to contemporary works. It rotates exhibitions throughout the year, including “Korean Influence on NC Pottery,” running now until June 25.
After a day of learning about the art of pottery, into the woods we went for an overnight stay at Getaway Asheboro.
Starry, Starry Night
This is the ultimate experiment for anyone looking to “rough it” and commune with nature. I will admit to having to push aside my reservations and open myself up to experiencing our 200-square-foot cabin. Tiny as it was, we did
have queen bunk beds, a fully functional kitchen, private bathroom, hot running water, and a table and two chairs. Picture a small studio apartment, except this is in the wilderness and on wheels.
There’s plenty of distance between each cabin on the property, and
guests each have their own fire pit, chairs and picnic table. Once you start strolling down the nature path and find yourself sitting by the babbling brook, you realize this is what it means to disconnect.
Once darkness came, with a lantern in hand, I saw the clearest sky I’d ever experienced, with a million stars in the sky. It made me think of how I don’t spend enough time looking up at the celestial sky, but the feeling made for a good night’s sleep.
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Southern Hospitality
Jerk chicken drumettes at Oro Restaurant & Lounge.
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Southern Hospitality
The Kind of Blue Room at The Historic Magnolia House is one of four available accommodations at the site.
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Southern Hospitality
Kicking back at Getaway Asheboro.
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Southern Hospitality
Enjoying a shoebox lunch at The Historic Magnolia House in Greensboro.
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Southern Hospitality
Enjoying a shoebox lunch at The Historic Magnolia House in Greensboro.
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Southern Hospitality
Seasonal Comoro tea at the O.Henry Hotel.
Back in Time in Greensboro
The next day we were off to Greensboro, which would include a tour and overnight stay at The Historic Magnolia House, a bed-and-breakfast that was listed in the original Green Book directory during the days of segregation, which
Black travelers used to locate safe places to rest while on vacation or traveling.
In its heyday, the Magnolia House Motel welcomed Jackie Robinson, Lionel Hampton, Gladys Knight and other luminaries. The property has been restored by current owner Natalie Pass Miller and the redesign has a midcentury modern feel. It began welcoming overnight guests in January with four bedrooms to choose from: The Baldwin, The Carlotta, Kind of Blue and The Legends.
Kind of Blue is the only room with an en suite bathroom. Guests in the other bedrooms share a bathroom, as they did during Jim Crow, and the rooms offer guests an authentic 1950s and 1960s hotel experience. We were even served a “shoebox lunch” to reflect the experience of Black travelers who frequently carried prepackaged meals in shoe boxes so they had food to eat in between Green Book sites.
To learn more about the history of Greensboro, we headed to the International Civil Rights Center & Museum. Open
since 2010, it’s located in the former F.W. Woolworth store where four Black college students from North Carolina A&T – Joseph McNeil, Franklin McCain, Ezell Blair Jr. and David Richmond (later known as the Greensboro Four) – held a nonviolent sit-in against segregation that sparked protests across the nation and reignited the civil rights movement.
The museum features the original seats and counter where the Greensboro Four peacefully protested. In addition, permanent and special galleries, artifacts and interactive exhibitions can be viewed through on-site or virtual tours. A highlight of the on-site tour is a video reenactment of the Feb. 1, 1960, sit-in, which makes you feel as if you are sitting at the counter with those brave students.
After the museum, it was on to the O.Henry Hotel for afternoon tea, which has become a Greensboro tradition. Held
in O.Henry’s Social Lobby, I saw a steady flow of groups, couples and individuals taste a variety of teas and scones, finger sandwiches and sweet treats. Because seasonal teas are offered, I decided on the decaffeinated black Comoro tea, a natural variety with vanilla flavors and vanilla flakes. It was one of the most aromatic and delicious teas I have ever tasted, and a delectable way to close out our second day in North Carolina.
The Smithsonian of the South
Day three would have us drive about 90 minutes to the state’s capital. Raleigh is a cultural hot spot with top-tier museums, earning the nickname “Smithsonian of the South.” Having visited many museums around the world, I was curious to see what the North Carolina Museum of Art (NCMA) had to offer.
The design and use of daylight in NCMA’s west building is impressive, and so is the vast Rodin collection; the African Gallery, featuring works that span 16 centuries; the Judaic Art Gallery; the Video Gallery; and the Audubon Gallery, among others. The museum store even features merchandise from local artists – everything from books to original artwork.
Not to be missed is NCMA’s Museum Park, the largest in the country. Its 164 acres boast trails, gardens and more than two dozen installations. Concerts and other special events are also held here.
Raleigh Shopping & Dining
From NCMA it was time to visit downtown Raleigh and check out Black Friday Market, a retail store that allows Black-owned businesses to sell their products commission free.
“When we opened in December 2020, everyone said we were crazy,” said Johnny Hackett, CEO at The Black Dollar Corp., which owns the market. “It was during the pandemic, but I knew it would work. My mother’s in real estate and the first thing you always hear is location, location, location – we are on the corner, and everyone passes by the store.”
It’s true, as evidenced by the steady flow of multigenerational people from different races browsing and purchasing various products, from clothing, original works of art, jewelry, beauty and home products, accessories, books and more.
“In 2021 we had $385,000 in sales … all of that money went back to the business owners. I’m proud that five business owners who started here now have their own storefronts, that’s what it’s all about,” shared Hackett.
After walking around downtown Raleigh for a bit, it was time to head back to The Longleaf Hotel to get ready for our final dinner at Oro. The restaurant has a very chic setting with floor-to-ceiling windows. The menu is tapas style, with delicious bites meant to be shared. Oro prides itself on presentation – specialty cocktails and desserts are presented to diners with smoke, fire and a story to go along with it, making for very Instagrammable moments. Even better, the dishes are as tasty as they are pretty.
Departing from Raleigh the next day made me think of North Carolina’s state motto, “Esse quam videri,” a Latin phrase which translates as “To be, rather than to seem.”
Whether it was the small town of Seagrove with a population of 285 or the bustling cities we visited, Southern hospitality was not just a phrase, it was a genuine being and feeling that emanates from the people of North Carolina.